A made-to-order career…
Before I was a vintage dealer I had a small studio where I created made-to-order hats and clothing. My early background was in art with a major in sculpture but I’d always been drawn to textile and garment design. My mother, grandmother and godmother all sewed so I had some early training, but I yearned to create clothing from my own designs. For that, I needed to learn pattern making. After college, when my kids were small, I decided to take courses at The School for Fashion Design in Boston. They are a fantastic little school. I took classes in pattern making, clothing construction, fashion illustration, 3-d design, textiles….the teachers were very demanding with high standards and I got a marvelous education. I also took two millinery/ hat making courses and fell in love with the medium.

My first job was in alterations at a high-end shop on Newbury St. called Stuarts. I loved working there and there is no better way to hone dressmaking skills than by altering better-made clothing. A few years later, I opened my own business doing custom sewing. Millinery work was my absolute favorite and I even had a small wholesale line for a couple of years.

Segue into vintage…
Sadly I had to stop sewing for a living because I developed a serious neck problem. This was difficult for me because I truly loved my work. My doctor said no more, so I had to find another line of work. I had always been passionate about vintage and had a large collection of my own. I bought pieces both to wear and to study and sold things here and there to my dressmaking customers. I guess it was a natural evolution.

Tangerine Boutique is my second vintage business. Before that, I had a small shop in Boston called Ramsey Couture. I began to segue from dressmaking into vintage around the mid 90s, about 15 years ago.

Every vintage dealer is unique and brings something special to their business. I think my forte is being able to spot pieces that look good on the body and wear well. I know what a well cut garment should look like and I have a critical eye for design. I am also really good at helping my customers with size and fit, which is one of the challenges in buying vintage.

Tips on spotting quality…
I am always assessing the quality of clothing. It’s a big part how I determine what to buy and how to price. Here are a few tips and guidelines I like to use:

First, check out the fabric. Is it pleasing to the touch? Does it hang well? Has it pilled or stretched out? A good trick for determining nice fabric is to scrunch a handful and hold it for a few seconds. If the wrinkles bounce back quickly that usually indicates a better quality. Nice silks and wools do not wrinkle easily. Even high-grade cottons are somewhat wrinkle resistant. Keep in mind though, some fabrics are just naturally wrinkle prone like linen and most taffetas and many synthetics do not wrinkle at all but that does not mean they are nice.

As for construction, look at how it hangs on the body first. Do the seams hang straight? Or do they tend to buckle or shift around? Do necklines lay flat? Are hems smooth? Look to see if facings and collars stay put and don’t roll or stick up. Beautifully made clothing holds its shape. Look to see if there are nice dressmaker details or handwork: cloth bound buttonholes, handset linings, hand embroidery and appliqué. These are all time consuming features that require skill.

Peek inside and see how things are finished off. Not all better garments will be lined. Women wore slips and foundation garments and a full lining can actually hamper the drape of the fabric. However, they will look neat and tidy inside. Seams should be finished even if it is just with pinking shears. Look for top stitching, the more the better.

Giving advise…
As a dealer I spent a lot of time answering questions and offering advice on how to buy vintage. I enjoyed answering those questions and offering tips to my customers and they seemed to appreciate it. They ask about size and age. They wanted to know how to wear vintage with modern clothing and if it needed special care and cleaning. I found it very satisfying to guide my clients through the process of buying vintage and to see them leave my shop or booth happy. Many of the questions were the same and some of my regulars started telling me I should write a book. Long story short, things fell into place and I was given the opportunity.

The purpose of my book, The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping, is to give people the tools and information they need to navigate the vintage market with confidence. I want them to have fun and to feel comfortable exploring THEIR vintage style.

Celebrity sighting…
I have had a number of memorable customers. Most exciting was when Diana Krall purchased a dress from my website and I sent her tickets for the Manhattan Vintage Show. I didn’t expect her to come, after all she is a world famous jazz singer with a very busy schedule. I was rendered nearly speechless when she appeared in my booth and introduced herself. She tried on a few 1940s dresses and looked like a vision in all of them. She purchased one and to this day I wonder if she ever wore it on stage.

I will probably do shows forever because they are a total blast. Everyone is there because they love vintage and are looking to buy. The excitement is palpable. I get to see people from all walks of life, young and older, wearing vintage in their own unique way. You never know who will walk by. We get designers and stylists, costumers and even the occasional movie star. Barbara Streisand showed up to one of the Sturbridge shows and I once had John Malkovich in my booth! How fun is that?

***We hope that you have enjoyed reading about Melody Fortier. To read our review of her book The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping: Insider Tips, Helpful Hints, Hip Shops please click here. To find out more about the Melody and her vintage business please visit www.tangerineboutique.com.