Vintage Patterns

Learn the history of vintage patterns, what to look for when buying vintage patterns, and how to care and store for them.

In 1863, Ebeneezer Butterick changed the face of home sewing forever by creating the first graded sewing pattern. Home sewing almost seems to be a lost art among today’s youth. But back then most women made clothes for themselves and their families. Soon there were all sorts of pattern companies available such as Vogue, Butterick, Hollywood, Simplicity, Advance, McCall's, DuBarry, just to name a few. Although some of these companies have gone out of business, today their vintage patterns have become a prize among collectors and costumers who need to accurately interpret a time period. The beautifully illustrated covers also give us excellent insight into the styles the average American wore.

For those who love the vintage look, but not the idea of double knits or polyester the silhouettes of yester year are perfectly suitable when made with modern fabrics. Designers are well aware of this concept. Vintage is a huge source of inspiration for many of today’s top designers. A tuck here, a pleat there, change the neckline and raise the hemline, and you’ve updated the look! Once you become familiar with some basic sewing and patternmaking techniques you can do this too! To learn more about sewing techniques and how to work with home sewing patterns check out our Recommended Reading section to the right.

So what if you don’t know how to put needle to thread? No worries! You can always hire a professional to sew it up for you. Just find a local tailor or seamstress in your area. Ask friends for recommendations. Or search your Yellow Pages. Often time fabric stores in your area will have postings from local tailors and seamstresses.

When shopping for a vintage pattern the most important thing to look for is that the pattern is complete and all pieces are accounted for. Nothing is worse than getting ready to start your project only to find a missing sleeve pattern piece!

There have been lots of changes to sizing over the years, so the best way to find a pattern in your size is to go by your bust size. The size # most definitely does NOT correspond to today’s retail sizes. Look on the back of the package and go by the size chart measurements. Note that a size 12 from one manufacturer could be a size 10 from another manufacturer. This is especially important when looking for vintage patterns.

Vintage patterns can be found at many thrift and vintage stores in your area if you don’t mind digging for it. But if you are looking for something specific you might try doing a search for vintage patterns on EBay or Amazon. The "Big 4" (Butterick, Simplicity, McCall's, and Vogue) are selling their discontinued patterns on their websites. Below is a list of vintage pattern companies on the web that we love!

When searching for a more historical pattern or costume it will be helpful for you to become familiar with the following terminology. Many patterns will refer to one of these time periods:

• Regency Era - The era spanning from the 1795 to the 1825. In this period, women's clothing styles were based on the Empire silhouette — dresses were closely-fitted to the torso just under the breasts, falling loosely below. The high waistline styles took attention away from the natural waist, and therefore unnecessary to wear the tight corseting. This made it possible for middle- and upper-class women to wear clothes that were not very confining or cumbersome, and still be considered decently and fashionably dressed.
• Romantic Era - The era spanning from the 1825 to the 1840. This period marked the return of the natural waist. Shoulders became narrow and sloped, waists became low and pointed, and sleeve detail migrated from the elbow to the wrists.
• Victorian Era - The era spanning from the 1837 to the 1901. This period marked the introduction of sportswear. During this period of the mid '90s, skirts took on an A-line silhouette that was almost bell-like, and o' mutton sleeves were introduced. The late 1890s returned to the tighter sleeves often with small puffs or ruffles capping the shoulder but fitted to the wrist. Skirts took on a trumpet shape, fitting more closely over the hip and flaring just above the knee. Corsets in the 1890s helped define the hourglass figure.
• Edwardian Era - The era spanning from the 1901 to the 1910. The Edwardian Period was also known as the Belle Époque - meaning beautiful era.

When you are finished using your patterns carefully refold them and placed them back into the envelope. If the pieces get too wrinkled you can try ironing them with the iron set on the lowest setting and no steam. Sometimes pattern pieces will not fit easily back into the envelope. In this case, try using a zip-lock bag. It is very important to keep patterns away from humidity, so keep them out of hot attaches or damp basements.